The topic of Pearl Luster can be a tricky one to describe to someone learning how to buy pearls. But it is an important topic to cover, and definitely something all pearl lovers should be familiar with. This article aims to quickly and easily explain this topic, and show you visual examples of each pearl type’s typical luster levels so you know exactly what we’re talking about.

The Table of Contents below can allow you to skip directly to the pearl type of your choice, or you can read the entire article.

Table of Contents:

What Is Pearl Luster

Akoya Pearl Luster

Hanadama Pearl Luster

Freshwater Pearl Luster

Metallic Freshwater Pearl Luster

Tahitian Pearl Luster

South Sea Pearl Luster

Luster is arguably THE MOST important aspect of a pearl’s value, beating out surface quality, symmetry of shape, size and color by a mile. If a pearl doesn't have nice luster, it just isn't going to be worth much. Luster is one of the famous “Value Factors” that jewelers, pearl specialists and appraisers use to grade pearls.

Pearl luster has three components:

• Luster measures the rate of light reflecting off the surface of the pearl.
• Luster measures the sharpness of reflection visible on its surface.
• Luster also measures how well light beams break up through the nacre layers to refract back at the viewer, giving very fine quality pearls a subtle “glowing” aspect.

All four of the major pearl types require a rating of “High to Very High” luster in order to be graded “AAA or AAAA Quality”. However, each pearl type plays with light in its own unique way and should be evaluated on a scale that takes that into account.

Akoya pearls are known around the world as having the highest quality luster of all pearl types. The luster is so sharp, shiny and reflective that Akoya pearls are often described as having “Mirror-sharp” or “Ball-bearing” luster.

Akoya pearl luster can be graded as Excellent, Very High to Excellent, Very High, High, Medium and Poor.

“AAA Quality” Akoya pearls MUST have either "Excellent" or "Very High to Excellent" luster in order to qualify for the grade.

"AA+ Quality”  Akoya pearls should have luster that grades "Very High" or "High to Very High" to qualify.

📢 Read More: Akoya Pearl Origins: How Akoya Pearls Get Their Luster

Hanadama Akoya pearls will have the very highest graded luster of all Akoya pearls, which is “Excellent” … and then some! Hanadama pearls truly are the "Ferrari of the Pearl World" ...

For Hanadama Akoya, you can find the luster grade on the certification listed as “Teri-Value” which must be graded as “Very Strong”.

Freshwater pearls have long been thought to have the lowest luster of all pearl types, but that certainly doesn’t hold true today. That said, the luster of Freshwater pearls is generally softer and not as “crisp” as that of the Japanese Akoya. This is due to their solid crystal nacre make-up, which makes the pearls very durable. However, this composition slows down light beams reflecting back at the viewer making for a softer, more satin-like sheen overall.

Like Akoya pearls, Freshwater pearl luster can be graded as Excellent, Very High to Excellent, Very High, High, Medium and Poor.

“AAAA Quality” Freshwater pearls must meet either "Very High to Excellent" or "Very High" luster in order to qualify for the grade.

"AAA Quality”  Freshwater pearls should have luster that grades "Very High" or "High" to qualify.

Below we have have our most popular pearl grades and luster rates.

📢 Read More: Freshwater Pearl Buying Guide

Metallic Freshwater pearls are one in 10,000 … literally.

These are Freshwater pearls with luster that is so incredibly sharp and reflective that it is the closest thing to getting fine Hanadama grade Akoya pearls (in terms of luster). With Metallic pearls, there will be no hazing around reflected light sources, and you will see a mirror-like reflection on the pearl’s surfaces. A single pearl necklace featuring metallic pearls is ultra-rare.

“Metallic” Freshwater pearls MUST have Excellent luster in order to qualify for the classification.

Tahitian pearls are cultured pearls spend quite a bit of time in the water acquiring their thick layers of nacre … typically 2 years is the minimum. So it comes as no surprise that Tahitian pearl luster is described as “satiny”. But that doesn’t mean that Tahitian pearl luster can’t be sharp, highly reflective and totally beautiful.

Like other pearl types, Tahitian pearl luster is graded as Excellent, Very High to Excellent, Very High, High, Medium and Poor.

“AAA Quality”Tahitian pearls can have either “Excellent” or “Very High to Excellent” luster.

“AA+ Quality” Tahitian pearls should have luster that grades “Very High to Excellent” or “High to Very High” to qualify.

📢 Read More: Tahitian Pearls 101 - Buying Guide

Like Tahitian pearls, White and Golden South Sea pearls are pearls that spend between 2-3 years in the water acquiring extremely thick nacre layers. These stunning pearls have luster that is also often described as “satiny” looking, but these stunners are not limited to soft luster levels at all. Quite the contrary, fine quality White and Golden South Sea pearls can have a deep, lustrous glow and silky shine that is unlike any other pearl type out there today.

South Sea pearl luster is graded as Excellent, Very High to Excellent, Very High, High, Medium and Poor.

“AAA Quality” South Sea pearls can have either “Excellent” or “Very High to Excellent” luster.

“AA+ Quality” South Sea pearls should have luster that grades “Very High to Excellent” or “High to Very High” to qualify.

📢 Read More: South Sea Pearls 101 - Buying Guide

Where to Buy Pearls

Pearl Grading Guide

Pearl Value Factors

Hanadama Akoya Pearls 101